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There are three primary types of dressmaking dummy – homemade, adjustable, and nonadjustable.

Dressmakers Dummy: Adjustable
These dummies are really the best bet if you’ll be creating garments for a number of people. An adjustable dressmakers dummy allows you to adjust the measurements of the dummy to match those of your client or model. Provided you’ve dialed in the measurements correctly, you can be sure that garments created on an adjustable dressmakers dummy will fit perfectly. Adjustable models can be found in lightweight plastic and in heavier-duty foam-covered styles. Plastic models are portable, but a bit unsteady, while foam covered models can be rather difficult to adjust on the fly. Plastic models are cheaper, so might be a good standby until you can afford a nicer dress form model.

A few more benefits to the foam dressmakers dummies are that you can pin fabric directly tot he dummy, securing things prior to sewing, and that you can usually iron clothing in-place without worrying about damaging the dummy or melting plastic onto the fabric. While these models are sturdier, they can be heavier and more difficult to move around, so think twice about these dummies if you don’t have a dedicated studio space.

Dressmakers Dummy: Homemade
Many who are new to dressmaking start out with a homemade dressmakers dummy. Let’s face it – if you’re interested in dressmaking, you’re already both creative and handy, so this isn’t too much to take on. One common construction method involves wrapping one’s body in duct tape (wear a T-shirt or this will NOT go well for you!). Once your torso is completely covered by the tape, the tape will be able to hold its own shape. The tape is carefully cut off, shirt and all, and stuffed with foam. You can mount your mini-me on a hanger, table, chair, or DIY stand. While this is neither the sturdiest nor the most professional approach, but as you get started, it can work very well.

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The fabric covered foam models offer some nice pluses. You can pin directly into the fabric (as opposed to the angle you must use with a plastic one) and you can press clothing on them. You can also adjust them to the size desired by sewing the foam cover and filling it with foam. They tend to be sturdier than the plastic models.

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They are also heavier than the plastic dressmakers dummy counterparts. The drawback is having to remake the size if you are working with different measurements.

Dressmakers Dummy: Professional
The dressmakers dummies used by the pros can cost hundreds – even thousands – of dollars, but there’s a very good reason for this – they are a joy to work with. Few pro-level dummies are adjustable, making for a sturdier product, but a serious investment if you’ll need to buy one in four, five, or even a dozen different sizes. The often have locking wheels, allowing them to be moved around a studio easily, but to be rock-solid when locked in place.

If you really want to play with the pros, and to make dressmaking a part of your livelihood, you should consider buying the best and most versatile dressmaking dummy you can afford.

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The number of aspiring professionals out there is mind-blowing, and amidst this clamor for attention, it can be hard to get noticed.
What makes your work special?

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The first thing that you must do if you want to make a go of it as a dressmaker of designer is to keep up with fashion trends. This is not to say that you should be copying the latest chic trend in your work, but that your interpretation of something happening today may be more likely to garner positive attention than something that is completely unconnected to the fashion now. Watch some current TV, pick up a magazine or two, or just spend a few minutes every day poking around online. That’s enough to keep your finger on the fashion world’s pulse, so to speak.

It can be helpful to specialize. If you pick a specific target audience – women of a certain age, interest, body type, or social group, for example – you’ll have an easier time distinguishing yourself and creating an image for your work than if you try to generalize. You may sacrifice some markets, but it’s a sound strategy. Faced with a client looking for something outside of your specialty, of course you won’t throw them out. Our clients allow us to make our living, and it’s our job to keep them happy. Whatever the client asks for, make sure that you execute it beautifully, and that the end result is both wearable and comfortable. This will bring you some good karma, at the least.

Maintain top-quality gear. A good, well-maintained sewing machine is a joy to work with. Surprisingly, there’s even a noticeable difference between working with top-quality pins and their dollar-store counterparts. If you’re serious about your work, you owe it to yourself and to your clients to use the best equipment that you can afford. Even if you can’t afford to buy the best of the best, you can make a big impact by simply maintaining your equipment – that means regular service and maintenance. One of the best investments you can make is in a dressmakers dummy. Read about it in our article here;

Dressmakers Dummy.

Think about needle size. It’s not something the casual user needs to concern themselves with, but the size needle you use in your sewing machine can have a big impact on your finished work. There are thicker needles appropriate for denim or leather, and thin ones for silks. Keeping a wide selections of needles on-hand will make life behind the sewing machine a lot easier. The same goes for hand-work – a good selection of needles is critical.

Keep your scissors sharp. You can buy the tools to sharpen them yourselves, or take them in to the shop to be sharpened on a regular schedule. If you’ve noticed that your scissors are feeling dull, you’ve already waited too long between sharpenings.

Find a dedicated space. Hauling all of your equipment and supplies out of the closet every time you want to work will get tiring, and it may lead you to stop sewing altogether. On top of that, a multi-purpose space may be full of lint, children’s toys, dog and cat hair, and all manner of ick. If at all possible, set aside some corner or room to be your dedicated studio. If you’re able to put even half of these dressmaking tips into action, you’ll be well on your way to dressmaking success.

Recommended Read; Cool Couture: Construction Secrets for Runway Style (Singer Studio)

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Packed with Information!

Table of Contents

Chapter 1 – Introduction 3
Chapter 2 – Figure Type 4
Chapter 3 – Choosing a Pattern According to Figure 9
Chapter 4 – Fabric: Pick Your Color 11
Chapter 5 – Style Lines, Silhouettes, Balance, and Proportion 13
Chapter 6 – Fabric Choice – Texture, Design, and Material 15
Chapter 7 – Fabrics and Fibers 16
Chapter 8 – Fabric Construction and Finishes 22
Chapter 9 – Making Patterns 25
Chapter 10 – Dress Making Terminology 26
Chapter 11 – Dress Label, Stitches, and Thread 28
Chapter 12 – Conclusion 29

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No one doubts the fact that you shouldn’t get a pattern before you’ve really thought about the sort of garment that you wish to make. To do otherwise is to put the cart before the horse! If you insist on trying a project without a pattern, you might do well to consider something in the home furnishings realm, as a pillow-cover or curtain relies less on an exact fit in order to be considered a success. I’m sure an interior designer might disagree, but truly, who’s ever felt embarrassed by the poor draping on their throw pillows?

Where to look for dressmaking patterns

Obviously, the final garment will depend as much on what sort of garment you’re making as on who will wear the garment. Never fear – dressmaking and sewing is a vibrant and popular hobby – you should have little trouble finding the patterns you need. You can find appropriate patterns in many different places, in an selection that will make your head spin!

Craft stores, specialty stores, and even big box stores like Wal-Mart are excellent places to start out your dressmaking experience. The reason for this is twofold – first, the folks working in these places typically know a thing or two about sewing, and can help you out personally if you get stuck in making a choice. Second, in addition to patterns, you can buy all of the tools, fabric, and supplies that you’ll need for your project right there in the same place. Who doesn’t like one-stop shopping? Another option, offering a much greater selection is the internet. If  it’s out there, you can buy it online and often at a less expensive price. Finally, sewing and dressmaking magazines often include some free dressmaking patterns to work from.

Taking Measurements

The standard measurements taken when making a garment for a person have remained constant for hundreds of years, at least. Most pattern and sewing books will go into some detail on taking measurements, and you can get some specific guidance here; Taking Measurements for Dressmaking, too.

You want to make sure that you get the most accurate measurements possible, meaning measuring your model or client wearing as little clothing as possible. Most experts recommend finding a tautness for your measuring tape that’s not too tight and not too loose, then using these universally-taken measurements for all garments, adjusting them for fit after the fact. This works well, when you remember to do it. For me, it’s easier to write notes about fit right on the measurement chart, and tighten my tape for fitted areas, while loosening it in spots where I want the garments to flow. I think this works for me because I rarely make more than one garment for the same person, so my measurements are intended for a specific piece.

It may seem like I’m beating a dead horse, here, but the first time you ruin $300 worth of fabric and supplies, the importance of measurements will be brought home for you. A couple of tricks that many like to use are to either take all of the measurements twice, once at the beginning of the session and once at the end, and comparing the two for major discrepancies. If you’ve made an error, the measurements will be vastly different, and you’ll have saved yourself some heartache. A further step to this strategy is to actually have different people take each set of measurements, in case the technique or knowledge of one person is lacking. The important part is to make sure you get accurate measurements, however you do it.

If you’re serious about the craft, don’t be shy when taking measurements! You’re making a garment that needs to fit in a particular way across the bust or crotch – you may need to get a little cozy with the person being measured. You can reduce the awkwardness of the process by clearly explaining your intent before laying hands on them, and letting them know when you need to get a bit cheeky!

With measurements in hand, and dressmaking patterns purchased, it’s time to get going with the dressmaking! I suggest stowing a spare copy of the measurements somewhere secure and consistent, but that’s because I’m less organized than some. Another strategy to hang onto them is to post them prominently in your workshop, or even transcribe them in big letters onto a white board that you can see from your workspace. Yet another possibility is to keep a notebook of all of your projects, and log the measurements in there as soon as they are taken.

Recommended Read; Pattern Magic 2

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Click Here for the Best Prices on Dressmaking Supplies

While it is generally true that you get what you pay for, don’t spend too much time looking at price tags, and certainly not at brand names. Sure, Fiskars makes a crazy-good set of shears, but you can likely find a generic pair that is every bit as good at a lower price. Don’t mistake this message to mean you should buy all of your tools at the dollar store – quality is our deciding factor here, not price.

The Basic Tools of a Dressmaker

Whether you’re just getting started or not, it can be useful to have a short list of the most basic tools that will be found in every dressmaking studio. To that end, here is a quick look at the tool kit you’ll want to assemble:

1. GOOD fabric shears. Your shears will come into contact with every scrap of silk, cotton, leather, and linen that passes through your studio. You’ll likely spend hours and hours carefully cutting fabric with your dressmaking shears, so get a pair that will last. Look for something between four and five inches long and as sharp as the devil. Never cut anything but fabric with your good shears. Keep several cheap pairs old standard scissors handy for cutting paper, cardboard, thread, yarn, and string. You might consider a few task-specific set of shears, such as pinking shears, but they’re not strictly necessary.

2. Pins and needles. One of the most basic and vital tools in your arsenal will be good pins and needles. Dull, weak, and bent needles are a nightmare to work with, and can snag on and damage fabric when used. The cost difference between good needles and cheap ones isn’t all that great, so why mess around? Get some good ones, and you’ll be glad you did.

One thing that not everyone thinks of is buying pins in several lengths. You rarely need a really long pin, but on those few occasions that you do – such as when pinning together five or six layers of fabric – the extra length is nice.

3. Marking tools. You want to be able to make marks on the garments that you create, to remind you of the placement of a hemline, for example, but you want to be absolutely sure that you won’t stain the garment permanently. Similarly, making notes on patterns and in books is incredibly helpful, but you want to be able to remove them later. For these needs, tailor’s chalk and a good erasable pencil may be all you need. There are various water-erasable pens on the market for marking fabric, too, but I find that the chalk works fine.

4. Tape Measure. A flexible tape measure will allow you to take accurate measurements of your client/model, but you’ll be surprised how often you use it on garments in process, too. You can find tape measures in nylon and fabric, as well as various long-lasting paper materials. I recommend the fabric tapes, though I admit that this is just a personal bias. Any tape that feels good in the hand will do the trick.

You should also stock up on things like seam-rippers, rotary cutters, straight rulers, scrap paper, post-it notes, and fabric glue. I also recommend a white board to hang in the studio and keep track of important measurements and ideas, though this is hardly standard issue for dressmakers. With the right tools in hand, you’ll be ready to rock and roll.

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It used to be that most woman had the skills to perform basic garment construction and clothing repair tasks. No more. Dressmaking has become a skilled trade utilizing knowledge held by a shrinking group. If you have dressmaking skills, that places you in demand.

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In order to really capitalize on this skill, though, you need supplies and tools. As you ramp up to the professional level, think about the money you’ll spend on your dressmaking supplies versus the benefit of the items purchased. If you’ll be logging hundreds – even thousands of hours – with your equipment and supplies, you’ll want to be confident that they are up to the task. This is motivation enough to treat your purchases as investments in the future, and to buy the very best dressmaking supplies you can afford.

• Sewing machine – Obvious, right? While there are a few nimble-fingered folks out there who make a wonderful living with handwork, embroidery, and needlepoint, the vast majority of dressmakers use their sewing machines more often than any other piece of equipment in the studio. Think hard about the features you’ll need in a a machine before you buy. If at all possible, try out a few models prior to plunking down a lot of cash.

You can buy a sewing machine for a few hundred bucks, or you can commit more money than it cost me to buy my last car, depending on the brand, the model, and the features. You can also squeak by with a used machine if you’re cash-poor. If you go in this direction – try before you buy – check the mechanisms for smooth operation, run the machine full out for about a minute straight and check for strange smells or sounds. If you do buy it, take it straight to a dealer for it’s first annual maintenance visit. Remember, your sewing machine will be the heart of your business. Take care of it.


• Tape measure – Standard tapes are 60 inches long, though you can get other lengths. Whether you go plastic, paper, or fabric, choose a tape that is easily manipulated and that feels good in your hand. It’s really a personal choice, but I like the fabric tapes.

• Scissors for paper and shears for fabric – Dressmaker shears or scissors should only be used on fabric – period. Never use them on paper, plastic, string, tape, or any household use at all. By limiting your shears to fabric use, you’ll avoid dulling them, and ensure a clean, smooth cutting edge. Most dressmaker shears come with a sheath for storage – using this will help protect your shears. Make sure to have a few general use pairs of scissors around the studio – easy access to “junk” scissors will help you resist the temptation to misuse your good shears simply because they are handy.

• Needles and Pins – This is the point at which many are tempted to skimp – they’re just pins and needles, right? While I understand the sentiment, the economics just don’t back it up. The very best package of pins you can find will cost relatively little, and will resist rusting, bending, and breaking much better than the dollar-store super-pack. Good pins and needles are a joy to work with. They are strong, resist bending, and last forever. Spend a few extra bucks here, and you’ll be glad you did.

• Rulers, straight-edges, marking supplies – Rulers and other straight-edges are very handy when cutting fabric, marking patterns, and the like. I prefer the metal rulers with the cork backing. These tend to stay-put on a flat surface so I don’t have to worry about it sliding around and messing up my measurements. My metal rulers are also durable – I’ve had them for nearly twenty years. Pencils and tailor’s chalk will be your primary marking supplies for dressmaking. Pencils help when taking notes and working with patterns, and they’re erasable so you can make changes without making a mess. The chalk marks clearly on fabric, yet comes out completely when you need it to. Accept no substitutes.

• Dressmakers Dummy – Thus far, you may have gotten by okay without a dummy. If you want to go pro, it will be hard to make it without one. A dressmakers dummy will allow you to see the drape and movement of a garment on an appropriately sized model. You can get an inexpensive plastic dummy to start, and upgrade when you feel you need to. Read more on the dressmakers dummy.

• Iron and ironing board – Finished garments often need to be pressed so that they will look their best when delivered. Some fabrics are much easier to work with if you’re able to iron-in pleats and folds. Make sure there’s plenty of table-space around your ironing board to placing garments to be pressed.

As you take the step into professional dressmaking, it’s hard to overemphasize the value of quality dressmaking supplies.

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Click Here for the Best Prices on Dressmaking Supplies

For the truly stunning fit that we always aim for when constructing custom clothing, detail and accuracy are crucial. You’d never want someone walking around in one of your creations that has been poorly fit, and taking the time to make alterations or – in the worst case – to start over because of careless measuring can really ruin your day and take the fun out of your creative process.

© Christopher Walker - PhotoXpress

Before you touch a bolt of fabric, you’ll want to get accurate measurements for your client or model. Schedule some time for the measurements when you won’t be rushed or distracted. I find that the kids’ naptime is a great time to schedule measurments, as the house is quiet. Your dressmaking kit should include a good tape measure. Nylon tape measures work just fine, clean easily, and are inexpensive. A good cloth tape measure may cost a little more, but feels great in your hand and really changes the whole ambiance of a measurement session. For me, a cloth tape in my hands reminds me that I love the work, and shows respect for the needs of my client. They probably never notice, but I do, and maybe that shows.

Have your client dress comfortably and not wear anything bulky or puffy. If they’re comfortable with the idea, and you have a private space in which to work, have the client disrobe as much as possible, allowing you to get true body measurements. Even bulky boxers can impact the final measurements – I’m not suggesting you measure your clients in the nude, but just that you make them aware prior to the session that they should wear form-fitting clothing if at all possible.

Have the client stand comfortably with good posture, arms down and to the sides of their body. Watch for slouching or twisting of the hips and shoulders, and try to correct these shifts as much as possible before starting your measurements. Some people have very poor posture all of the time – shouldn’t we measure them in this state? Not at all. Clothing is meant to fall in a certain way on the body, and to shift with our movements. A well-fitted garment may slouch with you, but a poorly-fitted one will struggle to look good when you move.

While there are some standard measurements you’ll need for all garments, bust, hips, and waist alone won’t cut it if you’re aiming for a truly extraordinary fit. Make it a habit to collect arm length, inseam, neck, arm, and leg diameters, and the like regardless of the style of garment being made. You may feel silly measuring a woman’s inseam for a cocktail dress, but believe me, you may actually want that information before you’re done!

• Arm length is measured on the inside of the arm, from the crook of the armpit to the bend of the wrist. Measure the arm both straight and bent, and measure each arm separately. Most of the time they’ll be identical, but the one time you run into a client with an extra inch on the left, you’ll be glad you checked, and so will they.

• Measure the waist by wrapping the tape around the midsection at the navel, and letting it fall and settle naturally. The final resting place of the tape is where you should measure the waist. Not too snug, and not too loose, here.

• Chest measurements are done just under the armpits and around the fullest part of the bust. For men, the widest part of the chest is what you need.

• Measure leg length three times, once when you start the session, once in the middle, and once at the end. Shifts in posture and position can affect this measurement, so use the average. Your client will thank you when she’s not walking on her dress all day! Measure from the hip to the heel for the most useful number.

• Get a measurement of the hip at the widest point.

• Back length is particularly important with occasional pieces. Lay your tape from the base of the neck to the waist for this one.

Recommended Read;  Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified

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Click Here for the Best Prices on Dressmaking Supplies

Click Here for the Best Prices on Dressmaking Supplies

Because good ones are pretty affordable, there’s absolutely no excuse for buying shoddy dressmaking equipment. Making good choices from the start will help you to avoid a lot of issues in the long term.

Unless you want to do hundreds of hours of painstaking hand-sewing, you’re in a tough spot when it comes to dressmaking without a sewing machine and other dressmaking equipment. If you want to turn out beautiful garments, it’s critical that you pick up a few pieces of quality equipment right from the start. If you’re looking for this sort of equipment, here are a few solid tips.

© pavel-siamionov- Photoxpress

• Get the best sewing machine you can afford. Most modern sewing machines are pretty fully-featured. They can sew in either direction, and in any number of needle patterns. This wasn’t even fathomable on the sewing machines of yesteryear. Even though the capabilities of the modern machine far surpass those of their predecessors, their prices have come down significantly in adjusted dollars.

• A good tape measure is important to getting accurate measurements. A plastic or nylon tape measure will surely get the job done, but there’s something special about a fabric or linen tape. It connects you more completely with the work you are doing, and with the generations who have done it before you. As an added bonus, linen tape measures can actually be pinned to the piece you’re working on to make sure you stay on track. They’re cheap, so if this is a trick you’ll use a lot; it never hurts to have several.

• Get a pair of quality shears. Never let anyone cut any thing other than fabric with your dressmaking scissors, as this can dull them. If you’ll be working with a lot of thick fabrics or materials, serrated edges can help. Personally, I keep a pair of razor-sharp scissors on hand for silks and satins, a pair of standard shear on hand for medium-weight materials, a pair of serrated shears for leather, and (believe it or not) a pair of unused poultry scissors for really tough work (mostly to protect my other shears). This may seem like an awful lot of cutting tools to add to your dressmaking equipment, but it’s worth it. Get all of these professionally sharpened at least twice per year.

• Get some chalk. Dressmaking or tailors’ chalk is the perfect implement for marking your measurements, steps, and changes as you work with fabric. Not only does it stand out boldly and stay put pretty well, it also washes out completely with a little effort.

• Regular scissors have a place in the studio. As we said, you should never use your fabric shears on other materials – so what about when you’re cutting patterns or scrap paper? A pair of regular old scissors will see more use in the dressmaking studio than you might imagine. I wrap red electrical tape around the grip of mine, so that I always have a clear reminder that they are NOT for fabric, even when I’m in a hurry.

• Quality thread, and LOTS of it. Nothing is worse than going to work on some detail or trim work just to find that you don’t have appropriate thread for the job. Thread needs to match the material on which it’s being used in order to fade into the background. Buying a large assortment and keeping it on hand will keep a thread shortage from costing you hours of time locating more. Buy a wide assortment of colors, in the best quality you can afford – you’ll be glad you didn’t go to the dollar store when it comes to strength and usability.

• Writing utensils, straight edges, etc. You’ve got you chalk, right, so why pencils, too? You don’t want to write down measurements, take notes, or mark paper patterns with chalk, do you? Of course not. Rulers can help with measuring material on a flat surface, but more importantly, provides a straight edge, which is very useful. I like the cork-backed metal rulers – they’re durably and stay in place.

These tips should get you started with your dressmaking in good stead and with all of the dressmaking equipment you’ll need!

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Click Here for the Best Prices on Dressmaking Supplies

The first clothes were likely made around 600 to 700 thousand years ago, when the quest for food led our primordial forebears into new, less hospitable climates. As our species sought out new territories with more resources to support their growing tribes, they protected themselves from the elements with utilitarian garments. Whether or not personal modesty was a concern is, at this point, largely a matter of conjecture. The archaeological record is silent.

© SADIA - Photoxpress

What we can state with certainty is that the clothing manufacture industry today has become one of the world’s largest. Numerous expressions of fashion and preference have been birthed under its auspices, and clothing choice remains the first and most direct method of personal presentation available to people today.

Most people do not make their own clothes anymore. Skills in sewing and leather-working are far from commonplace in the developed world, and this has contributed directly to the decline in dress-making today. After the advent of the oldest clothes, it is believed that the first weavers started at their craft around 40,000 years ago. Now, fine fabrics were available.

There were silks in China, and wool available all throughout European and Asian countries. These same materials are still available and widely used; a testament to their quality.

Though modern industrial methods have expedited the process, ancient dress-makers had to rely on the skill of their hands during every aspect of their craft. They developed all of the techniques on their own, and the skills of a tailor would be passed down through the years from Master to Apprentice.

But even amateurs had a hand in this craft, because professionally-crafted clothing was typically only available to the very wealthy. Most people had to rely on themselves or members of their family to craft their clothing from raw fabric. Most women at home had a set of needles, pins, threads, scissors, and measuring devices for making their own dresses. Through the process of making dresses, they would pass the art along to their daughters.

At the commencement of the Industrial Revolution, textile manufacture was one of the first industries to become mechanized. This was the first major step toward the decline of the art of dress-making. In the days that followed, professional creations became more accessible to more people, and it became fashionable to wear the creations of specific designers. Some dress-makers went on to become quite famous, hiring legions of tailors and seamstresses to produce their creations. This led to greater volume, faster production, and ultimately lower prices.

But this modern convenience came at a cost. Clothing is now so cheap and available as to make the once-lucrative and prestigious profession of dress-making economically obsolete. Now, the majority of dress-makers are found in either haute couture settings, designing one-of-a-kind creations for display on the runway, or in the few remaining indigenous and pre-industrial societies on earth. The plight of the modern dress-maker can be seen as a cautionary tale for all of us living in modern society: convenience and affordability do not come without a cost.

Recommended Read; Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated 2011

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